iPhone repair
Screen, battery, camera, charging port, liquid damage and back glass.
iPad repair
Cracked screen, touch that does its own thing, a battery that no longer lasts, or an iPad that won’t charge. We check it, give you a fixed price and tell you honestly whether it’s worth it. Fontanella 14, next to Plaça Catalunya.
4,6 out of 5 · 138 reviews on GoogleFree initial diagnosis · Fixed quote before any repair

Find the symptom closest to yours: we tell you what it usually points to, what not to do in the meantime and which repair it belongs to.
What it usually is. The iPad’s charging port is soldered straight to the logic board and takes a lot of abuse: leaning on the cable once is enough to bend a pin. Other times it’s just compacted dirt inside, or a charger that doesn’t supply enough current.
What not to do in the meantime. Stop pushing the cable in if it goes in crooked or hits something: each attempt can tear a track off the board, and at that point it’s no longer a port replacement.
What it usually is. On most iPads the glass and the touch layer are a single part, with the display panel underneath. A picture that still looks fine doesn’t mean a polish will do: if touch misbehaves or splinters come away, the whole glass has to go.
What not to do in the meantime. Don’t keep using it with broken glass or tape a screen protector over it to keep going: the splinters work their way under the frame, they cut, and once they reach the panel underneath a cheap repair turns into an expensive one.
What it usually is. In a hard fall what usually gives way isn’t the screen but the board connectors and the chassis itself, which bends and stops holding the modules in place. An iPad can look perfectly intact and still refuse to start.
What not to do in the meantime. Don’t try to straighten the chassis by pressing on it: the battery is glued to the back, it’s very thin and it punctures with almost nothing. And don’t charge it if it has ended up bent or bulging.
What it usually is. Almost always the battery, which has swollen and is pushing the panel out from inside. It’s a fault that gets worse on its own and ends up breaking the screen if it’s left alone.
What not to do in the meantime. Don’t charge it, don’t leave it in the sun or in the car, and don’t try to press the screen back down: a swollen lithium battery burns if it’s punctured. Keep it switched off somewhere cool until you bring it in.
This is guidance based on the symptom, not a diagnosis: until the device is opened and measured, nobody can tell you for certain what’s wrong. The initial diagnosis is free and the quote is fixed before we touch anything.
Cracked glass, touch firing on its own or dead zones. On an iPad the glass is bonded with cured adhesive and has to be lifted with controlled heat so the panel and the touch flex survive.
It lasts an hour, shuts down abruptly, or takes all night to charge. The iPad battery is glued to the chassis: it comes out with patience, not force.
Before replacing the connector we check the port, the cable and the charging line on the board. On iPads the port is usually soldered, so replacing it is microsoldering work.
An iPad with a bent corner won’t take a new screen unless the frame is straightened first — otherwise the glass cracks again within weeks. Straightening comes first.
It can be software, the battery or a board fault. That’s diagnosed by measuring, not by swapping parts and hoping.
Sound cutting out, a home or lock button that doesn’t respond, a camera that won’t open. Common, quick repairs when the module can be replaced.
So-called ghost touches: the iPad opens things with nobody near it, or leaves a dead strip. Usually a damaged digitiser or a flex under tension from a bent frame, and it’s checked before any screen is ordered.
If the glass has separated from the frame along one edge, it’s almost always the battery pushing from inside. Stop using it and stop charging it: this is the fault that most easily turns into two.
An iPad draws a fair amount of current, so a tired cable or a small adapter shows up immediately. Once those are ruled out, we inspect the port under a microscope and check the charging line on the board.
When even restoring doesn’t help, the fault isn’t software. We measure current draw and start-up rails to find out whether the iPad is even trying to boot.
Greyed-out Wi-Fi, signal that fades when you move the tablet, Bluetooth that won’t pair. The antenna is bonded to the chassis, so one drop or one previous repair is enough to disturb it.
Skipping strokes, pressure that doesn’t register, or a pencil that won’t pair. The pencil, the magnetic charging area and the iPad digitiser have to be told apart, and we test with a reference pencil.
Aluminium hides moisture very well, so a wet iPad usually arrives late. The sooner it’s opened, the board cleaned and the corrosion assessed, the more of the device there is to save.
The keyboard doesn’t wake the iPad, or the connection drops when you move it. We check the Smart Connector pins and their line on the board — that’s where the fault usually sits when the keyboard works on another iPad.
It stops reading your fingerprint after a badly done screen swap, or Face ID reports it’s unavailable. These sensors are paired at the factory: the original has to be worked on, not simply replaced.
Specks trapped inside, or a lifted edge after an earlier repair that was never sealed properly. We open it, clean it and re-bond it with fresh adhesive so nothing else gets in.
On an iPad the display assembly is large, thin and bonded to the frame with cured adhesive. It comes off with controlled heat and a lot of patience; rushed, the panel chips or the touch flex gets pinched, and a glass repair turns into a full display repair.
So the first thing we do is separate two things: the digitiser glass (what you touch) and the LCD/OLED panel (what you see). If the panel is intact, the repair is considerably cheaper.
An iPad that has landed on a corner almost always has a bent aluminium frame. Fit new glass onto a warped frame and it sits under tension, cracking again within weeks. Straightening the chassis first is what makes the repair last.
An iPad that won’t power on, won’t charge or hangs on the logo may have a board fault. In that case it goes to our microsoldering lab, where the specific component is repaired instead of writing the device off.
Even when you arrive with a shattered screen and the fault looks obvious, we check the same things:
That initial diagnosis is free. If the symptom means stripping the iPad down and measuring the board under a microscope, that’s an in-depth diagnosis: it carries a cost and we tell you before we start.
The aluminium chassis hides water well and it’s common for an iPad to keep working for a few days. Don’t charge it and don’t try to dry it with heat: corrosion advances inside, and what’s a cleaning job today is an eaten board tomorrow.
The repair comes with a 12-month warranty on the part we fit and on the labour. On an iPad that means that if the touch on the new screen fails, if dead zones appear, or if the battery we fitted degrades abnormally, it’s resolved at no charge. It doesn’t cover a new drop, later liquid damage or a different fault.
An iPad that still receives updates and has a single fault almost always is: it adds years for a fraction of the price of a new one. When the model no longer updates and needs both screen and battery, we run the numbers with you and you decide without any pressure.
We’ve written separately about a few of these models, because there’s a quirk worth knowing before you repair them: iPad (9.ª gen) and iPad Pro 12,9″ (3.ª y 4.ª gen).
Every fault is different, and the price depends on the model and the actual condition of the device. The initial diagnosis is free, and the quote is fixed before we touch anything.
On WhatsApp, by phone, or just drop in. Give us the model and the symptom and we can already point you in the right direction.
The initial diagnosis is free. If the symptom means stripping it down and measuring the board, we tell you what that costs before we touch it.
A fixed quote and a real timeframe, before we touch anything. You decide whether to go ahead.
Repair, reassembly and testing before you get it back, with a written 12-month warranty on the part and the labour.
5 out of 5 stars
Super recomendable! Se me rompió el cristal de una de las cámaras traseras de mi iphone 14 pro, apple me pedía 600€ y ellos en un tarde me repararon dos cristales de las 3 cámaras por 70€. Los chicos muy agradables!
5 out of 5 stars
Estos chicos son increíbles, les doy 5 estrellas porque no se pueden dar más. Cariñosos, profesionales y sin duda buena gente. Ya tengo informático de cabecera :)
5 out of 5 stars
No BS, just fair price and fast fix. I wish every city i live in has at least one of these trustable places.
5 out of 5 stars
Amazing service! They saved my laptop and stayed an hour after the closing hours to finish it just so that it would be ready the same day. Amazing people and service
It varies a lot by model: on iPad Pro and Air the glass and panel form a laminated assembly that costs considerably more than on a standard iPad, where the glass alone is sometimes enough. We give you the exact price once we see the model and confirm the inner panel is intact.
If it still gets updates and has only one fault, usually yes — it costs far less than a new one. If the model no longer updates and needs both screen and battery, we give you the numbers so you can decide without pressure.
Not a good idea. Dust and moisture get in towards the digitiser through the crack, and splintered edges can cut you. A failing digitiser can also end up damaging the panel, which is the expensive part.
Screen and battery repairs never touch the storage. Even so, we recommend backing up to iCloud or a computer before bringing it in.
Yes. If the iPad shows no sign of life we measure the power rails on the board. It’s often a specific component that can be repaired with microsoldering, with no need to write the device off.
12 months on the part we fit and on the labour for that repair, from the invoice date. If the same fault returns from the same cause we put it right at no charge. It doesn’t cover a fresh drop or later liquid damage.
On standard iPads, where the glass and the panel are separate parts, often yes — and it costs considerably less. On iPad Pro and Air the assembly is laminated and gets replaced as a whole. The first thing we do is confirm whether the panel underneath is intact.
It may well be: an iPad needs more current than an iPhone, and with a small adapter or a worn cable charging crawls. If it behaves the same with a reference charger, we look at the port and at the charging circuit on the board.
When runtime drops noticeably, when it shuts down with charge left, or when the screen starts lifting along an edge. iPadOS doesn’t show a battery health figure the way iOS does, so we measure cycles and real capacity with the device in front of us.
Yes, if it’s done properly. The Face ID module is paired to the logic board and has to be transferred carefully from the old display. Get that step wrong and Face ID stops working permanently, so it’s the delicate part of the job.
If the pencil is the reason you’re coming, yes: being able to test your pencil and a reference one on your iPad saves half the diagnosis. For a screen or battery replacement it isn’t needed.
It depends on the model and the fault. On an iPad the glass is bonded with cured adhesive and has to come off with heat and patience, so a screen replacement takes considerably longer than on an iPhone, and the new adhesive then needs time to cure. We confirm the timeframe when we give you the quote, once we know what it has and whether the part is available.
Don’t charge it, don’t try to switch it on, and forget the bag of rice. Dry the outside, leave it powered off and bring it in quickly: aluminium hides moisture very well and corrosion keeps spreading inside even while the iPad seems to work. We open it, clean the board and assess the real damage before quoting.
Those are ghost touches, and they almost always come from a damaged digitiser or a flex cable under strain from a frame bent in a fall. We check whether the frame is distorted before fitting a new screen, because if it isn’t straightened first the new screen fails again. Occasionally the cause is the touch controller on the logic board, and that’s a microsoldering job.
Start with the cheap checks: another cable, another port, and the iPad unlocked so you can accept the Trust This Computer prompt. If it still doesn’t appear, the usual culprit is the charging port, which on an iPad is soldered to the board, or a fault on the data line. We measure it before suggesting any replacement.
Screen, battery, camera, charging port, liquid damage and back glass.
Logic board repair at chip level: no power, no charge, no image, boot loop.
Lifted or cracked screen, swollen battery and charging problems.
Tell us what’s wrong and we’ll tell you what it is, what it costs and how long it takes. No obligation, and the initial diagnosis is free.
4,6 out of 5 · 138 reviews on GoogleCarrer de Fontanella, 14, bajos · 08010 Barcelona — or drop by Fontanella 14, next to Plaça Catalunya