Microsoldering & logic board
Logic board repair at chip level: no power, no charge, no image, boot loop.
Data recovery
The device can be replaced; ten years of photos can’t. If your iPhone or Mac won’t start, if the drive won’t mount, or if you deleted something with no backup, the sooner you bring it in the better the odds.
4,6 out of 5 · 138 reviews on GoogleAssessed before you commit · We tell you if it’s viable

Find the symptom closest to yours, Apple or not: Windows laptops and Android phones belong on this list too. We tell you what it usually points to, what not to do in the meantime and which repair it belongs to.
8 symptoms
What it usually is. Sometimes it’s a software problem and a reinstall settles it, but when the reinstall fails halfway or the loop comes back, there is almost always an unstable component on the board. Either way, the first job is getting what’s inside to safety.
What not to do in the meantime. Don’t restore it from a computer before you have asked someone: a restore wipes the contents, and if the fault is on the board you end up with no data and the same fault.
What it usually is. Two very different situations hide behind the same picture. One is software — an update that stopped halfway, a damaged partition — and the other is the board: power that never comes up, memory that doesn’t answer, a chip that heats and cuts out. The first move is to put it on a lab supply and watch how much current it draws: a phone pulling nothing and a phone pulling too much aren’t the same problem.
What not to do in the meantime. Don’t run a factory reset or wipe anything from recovery mode to break the loop: if the fault is on the board you’re no better off, and the photos are gone as well. On Android the storage is soldered and encrypted against that particular phone, so whatever is erased there isn’t coming back. And don’t leave it on a fast charger for hours hoping it reacts.
What it usually is. A Mac that gives no sign at all when you press the button is almost never a software problem. It’s usually power: the charger, the charging line, or a component on the board stopping the internal supply from coming up.
What not to do in the meantime. Don’t try borrowed chargers of dubious origin or chain resets for hours: if there’s a short, every attempt heats the same spot. And if it also got wet, don’t switch it on.
What it usually is. The Mac powers on but can’t find a system to boot from. It can be the drive, a damaged system or, on Macs with storage soldered to the board, a board fault. The urgent thing here isn’t getting it to boot: it’s the data.
What not to do in the meantime. Don’t reinstall macOS and don’t use Disk Utility to repair or erase the drive: that’s the fastest way to lose for good what could still be recovered. Shut it down and leave it off until somebody looks at the drive.
What it usually is. A drive that stops mounting can have a logical fault — a partition table wrecked by a power cut, a file system broken mid-write — or a physical one: the SSD electronics, worn-out cells, the mechanics of a spinning disk. A PC works in your favour here, because the storage almost always sits on a separate module and can be taken out and worked on away from the broken machine instead of waiting for it to boot. And the urgent thing isn’t getting the system back, it’s what’s inside.
What not to do in the meantime. Don’t accept the automatic repair the system offers at startup and don’t run a disk check to see whether it sorts itself out: both write to the volume and, if there’s a physical fault underneath, they write right over what could still have been recovered. If it offers to format, say no. Don’t install recovery software onto the same drive you’re trying to recover. And if it’s a spinning disk and it clicks, unplug it and leave it unplugged.
What it usually is. That repeated click is the read arm of a mechanical drive trying to find its position and failing. It’s a physical fault: every minute it stays powered on it may be scoring the platters where your data lives.
What not to do in the meantime. Don’t plug it in one more time to see whether it mounts today, don’t put it in the freezer (that forum trick destroys drives) and don’t knock it. Unplug it and leave it unplugged: the fewer times it spins up, the more can be recovered.
What it usually is. Deleting usually doesn’t destroy the data straight away: it marks the space as free. As long as nothing writes over it there is a good chance of getting it back; once something does write there, that chance drops sharply.
What not to do in the meantime. Stop using that drive and that computer, don’t install free recovery software onto the affected volume (it installs right on top of what you want back) and don’t run a backup onto that drive.
What it usually is. The Mac can see the drive but can’t make sense of its partition table or its file system. Often the data is all still there and only the index is damaged; other times there is a physical fault behind it.
What not to do in the meantime. Don’t click Initialise or Erase, however insistent the message is: it’s exactly what the system asks for and exactly what you must not do. Eject it and unplug it.
We couldn’t find that symptom in the list. Tell us in your own words and we’ll get back to you.
Tell us on WhatsAppThis is guidance based on the symptom, not a diagnosis: until the device is opened and measured, nobody can tell you for certain what’s wrong. The initial diagnosis is free and the quote is fixed before we touch anything.
A Mac stuck on the logo or showing a question-mark folder, an iPhone in a boot loop. If the memory is healthy the data can be extracted even though the device doesn’t work — that’s the first thing we check.
The system doesn’t recognise the volume, asks to initialise it, or it disconnects on its own. Don’t format it and don’t accept automatic repairs: every attempt narrows the options.
Deleted files, an emptied folder or a drive formatted by mistake. As long as nothing has been written over it, much of the data is still there.
Wet devices or damaged boards. Here the job is usually to repair just enough of the board for the memory to become accessible again.
On Apple silicon Macs and on every iPhone the storage is soldered and tied to the device. The route is repairing the board, not pulling the drive — which is why microsoldering is required.
Backup drives that stop responding, memory sticks the computer no longer recognises. We assess those too.
The iPhone works but you can’t enter the passcode or see anything. The usual route here is repairing the display just enough to regain access and pull the information out.
An interrupted macOS update or a badly timed restart can leave the volume unmountable. In many cases the data is still there and what’s damaged is the file system structure.
On a mechanical drive that sound means physical damage. Power it down and don’t plug it back in: every spin-up in that state can scratch the surface holding your files.
The system offers to format it because it can’t read the partition table, not because the data has gone. Accepting that format is precisely what you should not do.
The backup drive mounts but the restore fails or finds no backups. It’s usually a problem with the backup container, and files can often be extracted one by one.
If you have the password or the recovery key, encryption is no obstacle. If you don’t, no technique in the world helps: we’ll tell you that on the way in rather than raise false hopes.
Empty albums, greyed-out thumbnails, or a library that won’t open at all. We work on a copy of the drive so nothing still left on the volume is lost.
One drive down in the set, a rebuild left half-finished, or an enclosure that no longer sees the disks. Each drive is analysed on its own before any attempt to rebuild the set.
It’s the hardest part to accept, but it’s true. Every boot of a damaged drive, every “repair disk” and every system reinstall can write over exactly what we want to rescue. If the data matters, power the device off and bring it in.
And if it got wet, don’t charge it: applying current to a damp board is when the real damage happens.
On Apple silicon Macs and on every iPhone, storage is soldered to the board and encrypted alongside it. You can’t pull the chip and read it in another machine the way you could with an old hard drive. The only route is bringing the board back to a working state, and that’s microsoldering, plain and simple. Having it in-house is why we can take on cases that are turned away elsewhere.
Once you have your files back, set up an automatic backup: Time Machine on a Mac, iCloud or an external drive at home. It will save you this particular afternoon next time — and there is always a next time.
Before anything is touched we need to know what kind of problem this is, because the route changes completely:
With that we tell you whether we consider it viable, what we expect to recover and what it costs, before you commit to anything.
Better said upfront: a recovery doesn’t always hand things back neatly arranged. Depending on the damage, files can come out without their original names, without folder structure or incomplete, and some formats cope far worse than others with a missing chunk. Wherever possible we work on an image of the drive rather than the original, so we don’t spend chances on the only copy, and we show you what came back before closing the case.
A Mac that gives no sign of life and a Mac that starts but can’t find a system are two very different situations, and the second one tends to end better. It’s worth checking before you come in: whether the backlight lifts at all in a dark room, whether the fan spins, whether the charger indicator changes when you plug it in. None of those checks writes anything to the disk, and every one of them shortens the assessment. What doesn’t help is trying to boot it over and over with the data still inside.
It happens often: the machine has had its day, but what’s inside it hasn’t. Those are two separate decisions and it helps to keep them apart from the start. Quite often the job is rescuing the information and retiring the device on the same afternoon.
Every fault is different, and the price depends on the model and the actual condition of the device. The initial diagnosis is free, and the quote is fixed before we touch anything.
On WhatsApp, by phone, or just drop in. Give us the model and the symptom and we can already point you in the right direction.
The initial diagnosis is free. If the symptom means stripping it down and measuring the board, we tell you what that costs before we touch it.
A fixed quote and a real timeframe, before we touch anything. You decide whether to go ahead.
Repair, reassembly and testing before you get it back, with a written 12-month warranty on the part and the labour.
5 out of 5 stars
Super recomendable! Se me rompió el cristal de una de las cámaras traseras de mi iphone 14 pro, apple me pedía 600€ y ellos en un tarde me repararon dos cristales de las 3 cámaras por 70€. Los chicos muy agradables!
5 out of 5 stars
Estos chicos son increíbles, les doy 5 estrellas porque no se pueden dar más. Cariñosos, profesionales y sin duda buena gente. Ya tengo informático de cabecera :)
5 out of 5 stars
No BS, just fair price and fast fix. I wish every city i live in has at least one of these trustable places.
5 out of 5 stars
Amazing service! They saved my laptop and stayed an hour after the closing hours to finish it just so that it would be ready the same day. Amazing people and service
In many cases yes. If the memory itself is undamaged, the route is repairing the board enough for the device to boot so the data can be pulled off. That’s microsoldering work, which is why it isn’t offered everywhere.
Not necessarily, but it changes the approach. Because it’s soldered and encrypted together with the board, the chip can’t be removed and read elsewhere: the board has to be brought back to a working state. It’s more complex, which is why the initial assessment matters so much.
Don’t format, don’t reinstall the system, don’t accept automatic disk repairs, don’t leave the device powered on trying over and over, and if it got wet, don’t charge it. Every attempt risks writing over exactly what we’re trying to rescue.
No, and be wary of anyone who guarantees it up front. It depends on the actual state of the memory. What we do is assess it first and tell you honestly whether we think it’s viable, what we expect to recover and what it costs, before you commit to anything.
Your data is yours. We access only what the job requires, hand the information over on whatever medium you tell us, and wipe it from our equipment when the case is closed.
Entirely dependent on the case: an accidental deletion is nothing like a corroded board. We give you an estimated timeframe after the initial assessment.
No. Apple’s encryption is tied to the device, and without the password, the passcode or the recovery key there is no legitimate way into the data — nor would we attempt to bypass it. We would rather say so at the start: it’s the honest answer, even if it isn’t the one you were hoping for.
However you prefer: an external drive of yours, a stick you bring, or one we prepare. If you’re bringing a drive, an empty one with plenty of room is best, so nothing you already have on it’s put at risk.
You can, but weigh it up. That software writes to the drive while it works and, if there’s physical damage, keeping the drive spinning for hours makes things worse. If the data is irreplaceable, the sensible move is to leave it alone.
It depends on the state of the memory and on the work involved, so we assess first and quote afterwards. What you won’t find here is a surprise charge: you’ll know the cost and what we expect to recover before you authorise anything.
If they are in the device storage and that storage can be read, they come out with everything else. If they only ever existed in an iCloud backup you can’t get into, the work is in your account rather than in the device, and there we can’t help.
The 12-month warranty covers the hardware repairs we carry out along the way, such as bringing a board back to a working state. Data, though, is an outcome rather than a part: that’s why we never promise recovery percentages and instead tell you beforehand what we expect to find.
Yes. Mechanical drives that have to be opened are handled in a clean room, because a single speck of dust on the platter is enough to ruin the surface your files sit on. Not every case needs it: with soldered storage and SSDs the work is on the board, not inside a sealed drive.
No. That sound means mechanical damage, and every power-up in that state can scratch the surface holding your data, so the fewer times it spins up the better. Unplug it, don’t run recovery software on it and bring it in as it is. We assess it and tell you what we expect to be able to retrieve before you authorise anything.
No, but message us on WhatsApp first and tell us about the case: which device it is, what happened and whether anything has already been tried. With that we can tell you what to bring and, above all, what not to do in the meantime, which is where most data gets lost.
In many cases yes, and it’s a different goal from repairing the phone: the job is to get the board working just enough to reach the storage and pull the data off. In the meantime don’t charge it and don’t try to switch it on, because with a damp board every attempt can finish off what’s left. The sooner it reaches us, the more there is to rescue.
Logic board repair at chip level: no power, no charge, no image, boot loop.
Won’t turn on, screen, battery, keyboard, liquid damage, SSD and RAM upgrades.
Screen, battery, camera, charging port, liquid damage and back glass.
Tell us what’s wrong and we’ll tell you what it is, what it costs and how long it takes. No obligation, and the initial diagnosis is free.
4,6 out of 5 · 138 reviews on GoogleCarrer de Fontanella, 14, bajos · 08010 Barcelona — or drop by Fontanella 14, next to Plaça Catalunya